Kansas City Metro · Lenexa, KS
How to Tell if Your Silverware is Real Sterling Silver
Inherited silverware is one of the most common things people bring to our Lenexa shop — a full flatware set, a handful of serving pieces, or an old tea service from a grandparent's estate. The first question is almost always the same: is it real sterling silver, or just silverplate? Here's how to read the marks, tell the difference, and know what to bring in for a free evaluation.
What 'sterling' actually means
Sterling silver is an alloy that is 92.5% pure silver by weight. The other 7.5% is usually copper, added to make the metal strong enough to hold shape as knives, forks, spoons, and trays. In the United States, sterling is most often stamped with the word 'Sterling', 'STER', or the number '925'. All three mean the same thing: the piece is 92.5% silver.
Hallmarks that mean real sterling silver
Look on the back of flatware handles, the underside of bowls, the base of candlesticks, and the bottom of trays. A magnifying glass or phone camera zoom helps. These are the marks that indicate genuine sterling:
- 925 or .925 — 92.5% pure silver, the most common modern mark.
- Sterling or STER — the plain-word US standard.
- Lion Passant — the walking-lion symbol used on British sterling since the 1500s.
- Britannia mark — a seated woman figure used on higher-grade 95.8% British silver.
- Maker's name plus 'Sterling' — many American makers such as Gorham, Tiffany, Wallace, and Kirk stamped their name alongside the sterling mark.
Marks that mean it is NOT sterling silver
Silverplate is a thin layer of silver over a base metal such as copper, brass, or nickel. It looks similar but contains very little recoverable silver. If you see these marks, the piece is almost certainly silverplate, not sterling:
- EPNS — Electro Plated Nickel Silver. The most common silverplate mark.
- EP or Electroplate — electroplated silver over base metal.
- IS — International Silver Company, a major silverplate manufacturer.
- A1, AA, or Quadruple Plate — marketing terms for thicker silverplate layers, still not sterling.
- Silverplate, Silver on Copper, or community plate — explicit silverplate labels.
- Rogers, Oneida, Wm. Rogers, or Reed & Barton without a 'Sterling' or '925' stamp — these famous names made both sterling and silverplate; the absence of a sterling mark is the key.
British hallmarks vs. American marks
American sterling usually just says 'Sterling' or '925'. British and Irish sterling hallmarks are more detailed. A full British hallmark includes a Lion Passant (the sterling guarantee), a town mark such as a leopard for London or an anchor for Birmingham, a date letter, and a maker's mark. If you see a lion passant, you have sterling regardless of the other symbols — but the other symbols can add collector or provenance value.
Quick at-home checks before you visit
Marks are the most reliable clue, but a few simple checks can confirm your suspicions:
- Magnet test — sterling silver is not magnetic. If a strong magnet sticks, it is silverplate over a magnetic base metal or a stainless-steel lookalike.
- Weight test — sterling is heavier than silverplate because it is mostly silver. A hollow-handled knife that feels surprisingly light is likely silverplate with cement or resin inside.
- Tarnish test — real sterling tarnishes to a dull gray or black when exposed to air; it can be polished back to bright. Chrome or stainless steel does not tarnish the same way.
- Edge check — worn spots on silverplate often reveal a different-colored metal underneath, such as copper or brass. Sterling worn through is still silver-colored all the way through.
Common mistakes when sorting estate silver
Many people assume a famous brand name means sterling. Oneida, Rogers, and Reed & Barton produced enormous quantities of silverplate that is now in family estates. The word 'Sterling' or '925' is what matters, not the maker. Also, a well-made silverplate piece can look and feel substantial; only the mark or a test can separate it from sterling.
Knife handles are a special case. Sterling flatware knives usually have a hollow handle filled with resin or cement for stiffness. The handle is sterling, but the weight is not all silver. The blade is typically stainless steel. We separate and weigh correctly so you are paid only on silver content.
What to bring in for a free evaluation
Bring everything you are unsure about — full sets, partial sets, loose pieces, and pieces with no marks at all. We test electronically and by weight at the counter, and we can usually tell sterling from silverplate in seconds. There is no charge to evaluate and no obligation to sell. Kansas law requires a government-issued photo ID for any precious-metal sale.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is '925' the same as sterling?
Yes. 925 means 92.5% pure silver, which is the exact definition of sterling silver.
What does the Lion Passant mean?
The Lion Passant is the British guarantee of sterling silver. It means the piece is 92.5% silver.
Is silverplate worth anything?
Silverplate has only a microscopic layer of silver over base metal and is generally not worth buying for silver content. We can still test it and tell you exactly what you have.
What if my silverware has no marks?
Bring it in. Unmarked pieces can still test as sterling. We use electronic testing and weight verification to determine what you have.
Do monogrammed or worn pieces lose value?
For silver content, no. Monograms and wear do not change the silver weight. The silver value is based on actual silver content. Collector value may be affected by heavy engraving or damage, but that is separate from the metal value.
Do you buy full flatware sets?
Yes — full sets, partial sets, single pieces, and sterling holloware such as tea sets, trays, and candlesticks.
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